DECORATIVE MODULAR RING

Carrying on from yesterday's paper connection model I created a modular ring. There are two sections, which differ only in the finishing pattern of the center twist. The orange module overlaps the brown module at both ends.

THE WATCHBAND RING

I have been experimenting with modular paper connection again. This time I aimed to make a long ribbon of connected pieces of paper which could be used as a ring, bangle, belt, napkin holder, or similar.

I have called the model The Watchband because the decorations on the front resemble the links of the standard metal watchband.

The green and blue model was folded from standard 6 inch kami squares which were folded into quarters in both directions and then cropped to produce 4 x 3 rectangles. This provides enough paper to ensure that inside is relatively smooth and can be worn as a ring or bracelet without irritating the wearer.

The original model, shown here in white, is folded from 2 x 1 rectangles. The advantage of this version is that the model is less bulky and folds neatly from thicker paper. The model shown is folded from 4 x 2 inch pieces of copy paper. The disadvantage of this sized paper is that the back side of the model is bumpy and is uncomfortable on the skin if worn as a ring or bracelet. Of course, this problem might go away if it were also folded from thinner paper. Alternatively, the band can be worn inside out, with the link pattern on the inside and the diamonds showing on the front.

Crease Patterns for both the original 4 x 4 and the 4 x 3 (Variation 2) model are shown here. A third option, Variation 1, will produce a model with pointed bumps around the edges.

CUBIC FRAME

I have been looking for something in which to store and display my increasing collection of kusadamas, some of which are almost 12 inches (30 cms) in diameter. Clear boxes have one or more of several problems: they are too small, not the right shape, too weak or very expensive.

I decided to make my own.

First I sought out designs for cut out boxes. None of these were entirely appropriate, either.

I began to think of making a rigid frame to which I could attach clear sheets of something. I wondered if the frame itself could be made out of some clear material. I am still wondering about that but do not have a clear answer yet. So far I have not come across anything clear that I would fold well. The closest thing is thin glassine which is not, of course, very strong. Velum cracks. Most plastic will not hold a crease.

I consulted the origami literature on the web but discovered that frames which I might be able to utilize just did not fit the bill. Some of the better ones were difficult to put together, where designed to form balls rather than cubes or had too many visually distracting struts. In other words they were meant to be an art form or their own rather than a vehicle to show off something else.

After weeks of frustration I decided to design my own display cases. I dislike working with huge sheets of material so I decided to make a modular frame which was strong enough to be made in a large size, be stacked up several high and be capable of having a floor inserted into it and acetate sheets glued to the struts or folded into them. I also wanted one which could be made into a cube or a rectangle and have struts where the thickness could be varied from model to model. In other words, I wanted a model which was fairly flexible in the way it could be made up and in the strength of the material which could be used to make it.

After several attempts which did not come out quite right, including one in card weight material, I came up with the model shown here.

The example is made from thin (20lb) copy paper in three colors. In spite of the flimsy paper the model is surprisingly strong. The example has strut reinforcers in the four uprights only and has a thin paper floor which is folded into the struts on two opposite sides.

As my dedicated readers will know, I tend to use copy paper for all my prototype models as it is cheap enough to throw away in bulk as I discard one failure after another.

Successful models are often made up with better paper but sometimes I post the designs here before I get around to that task - especially if the piece is a modular design which takes a long time to prepare, fold and put together. This one is a case in point. In any case, using three different colored papers helps demonstrate the way the model is put together.

I intend to make the functional models in stronger metallic paper reinforced with relatively thick card in all twelve struts. The disadvantage will be that the last tab in each triad will be relatively more difficult to push in. The acetate sheet walls and floor will be glued on as acetate tends to crack if folded. I will experiment with other types of relatively inexpensive clear material of various rigidities. Velum may work. Overhead projection slides may work. I doubt, however, that something as thin as the stuff used for wrapping food will be of any practical use.

Here are the crease patterns for the model.














This time I have included thumbnail copies of the folding instructions. The full sized ones will be available in my book when it is published. You may not be able to read all the written comments but the diagrams and images are big enough to allow you to make the model anyway. Have fun.

NAME and TITLE CARDS

Here are some simple folds which create stable name cards for table placement and title cards for display models. They are both made from A4 or American letter-sized paper.

In deference to my many Spanish speaking readers I have labeled the examples in Spanish. Hola mis amigos.

My many Brazilian followers will wish to translate these as "O Nome" and "O Titulo" respectively. Olá pessoal!


















The dotted crease marks at the top and the bottom of the Crease Pattern for the Name Card are lightly folded marker creases which do not extend into the space reserved for writing (or printing) the name.

They are there so that the side hems can be folded accurately. The model is completed by tucking the side hem at one end into the side hems at the other end. This forms a triangular shape with the floor being the only section showing the marker creases.

This is a very stable model.


The Title Cards are commenced by marking the center on the short side with a short light crease before folding the piece in half in the other direction (lengthwise). Now make a cupboard by folding the short edges into the center. The top and bottom quarters shown on the Crease Pattern will now crease themselves as you crease the topmost sheets (which is why these creases are shown in a lighter color).

Next, mark the diagonals on the sides. I have only shown these on one of the quarter sections. You can fold them on both if you wish, or else copy the sharp folds onto the other side by folding the layers together.



Next we halve the angle made by the side marker creases. Then fold a diagonal from the other direction (as shown) to meet the end of that halving fold. Fold the other side to match (if you have not already done so by folding through all layers.)

You should have triangular points on both ends made by two side flaps. Tuck the shorter one into the longer one on both sides. (See the photo of the back of the card for an example.) The resulting model should now slant at an appropriate angle for reading when placed on a table. Adjust the sides and the angle as you wish by folding the back triangles inwards or outwards.

THE QUILT BOX

I have been exploring the use of connected carrier modules over the last several weeks. I have progressed from kusdamas through quilts (more later) and onwards. Here is today's experiment: a box made from connected carrier module "quilt squares".

I filled the carrier window pockets with four interleaved triangles. This gives the effect of four diamonds inside each window. I covered the connecting holes at the base with "feet". I added a strengthening and cosmetic insert to the back hinge (the lid). Finally, I added a knob on the top.

Although it looks complicated, most of the elements of this box are easy to fold and to assemble. The most difficult element are the legs, not because they are difficult to fold but because they are tricky to attach to the base.

I used different colors to emphasize the elements although I think the box would work better with fewer colors. A more sophisticated model might use gold paper for the knob and the feet.

The box is a little heavier than most because of the multiple layers of paper. On the other hand it is very sturdy.

I may change the closure technique in the next model to make it more secure. In this model the lid is tucked in between the wall sections and remains closed through friction. I would be more robust if it were folded over something on the walls of the box. I will experiment some more.

In this model there are small air holes around the edges of the lid. Perhaps I could modify the "legs" and add them around the edges of the lid. Finding a way to connect them firmly and still allow the lid to open will pose a challenge.

All the modules are from squares, with the exception of the legs which are made from half squares.

This was a "proof of concept" box along the way to making larger boxes with multiple quilt squares on each side. I have already discovered how to connect flat modules together firmly in large sheets and connect kusudamas together in a variety of angles. The main challenge in cubic 3D box construction was how to strengthen and hide the corner holes. After several failed attempts I finally came up with something that works, is relatively simple and looks decorative. Unfortunately this works on the corners of the base but not on the corners of the lid.

The technique should permit me to make rectangular box shapes as well as cubic ones like this sample. This is useful because rectangular shaped modular boxes are rare in the origami literature.

The Tomoko Twist Transformation Trials: 2

Here is a third lid for the American Letter sized Triangle Sided Twist Box. It has a small insert which matches the color of the base. The insert is made from a square sheet of paper with a width which is equal to two of the nine sections of the lid.

This lid and base confirmed that the best sizing for 20lb copy paper is American Legal size minus 1/8 inch for the base and standard American Legal size for the top. These two fit perfectly: not too tight, not too loose.


Here are the crease patterns for both parts.

The Tomoko Twist Transformation Trials.

Some of my LA folding friends have been redesigning one of Tomoko Fuse's modular twisted boxes for single sheets of paper.

The blue and purple box is a copy of the original Fuse box (minus the lid). It is made from two squares of paper.




Jim Cowling from the LA folding community redesigned this box for a single dollar bill: that is, a sheet of paper with dimensions which are 4-1/4" x 11" or multiples thereof. John Andrisan designed a dollar bill sized lid for this box.

Here are examples folded by the designers in ordinary copy paper and standard origami kami.




















Here is how these boxes differ from the original Fuse design. The Fuse box (sounds electrical doesn't it?) is on the right (the grey one), the Cowling-Andrisan box is on the left (the green one). The folded sheets show how the pattern looks when folded with one dollar-sized piece of paper versus how the pattern looks when folded with two square pieces of paper (the Fuse original).

I have uploaded a copy of the Cowling-Andrisan one-sheet pattern. There are no indications of which direction the creases are to be folded (whether valley or mountain) but the photos should help sort this out. Failing that, fiddle until it looks about right. It works for me. :-)




The model looks good when folded with dollar bills, as intended. The one in green is the LA version folded by the designers.



The one in grey is my rendition of the Dollar Bill version made from a photocopied facsimile. I modified the floor slightly from the LA original. I just can't leave good designs alone :-)




















Not to be outdone, I went about designing a version for an American Legal sized sheet. Here is what I came up with.

The base has a pleat in it which adds some interest. There are two versions of the lid. (Actually I came up with about a dozen of them, but these two appealed to me the most.)

The decoration on the tops of the lids is achieved by folding the roof of the lid inside out so that the bulky stuff is on top.






















If the paper is thin enough there is no need to shorten the paper for the bottom. The lid on the pink box is slightly sloppy. The bottom was made with paper with a quarter inch removed on the long axis. I think it would have been better with only 1/8" removed. The cream lid fits on the brown box a little too snuggly; one side of the brown box bows slightly.

This is a relatively quick box to fold, but it is not for beginners. The main challenges are dividing the sheets into nine parts on the long axis, folding them accurately into squares on the short axis (with a little bit left over). The next challenge is to tuck one end into the other before folding up the floor (or the top of the lid).

I solved the division process by pinch creasing the long sheet at the half way point on both ends. Then I took out my Division Helper (see one of the first entries in my blog) and lined the mid-point of the paper up to the 4-1/2 line and a side to the zero line. Holding the paper down firmly on the far side I folded the zero edge to the 4 line and repeated that on the other side. The rest of the creases can be derived from these two.

Folding accurate squares is tricky. First I pinch folded a triangle on both bottom corners, spanning two sections. Than I lined up the ends of the pinch creases and folded a line across the page. I used the accordion method to fold the paper into more or less "accurate" large squares (two by two), then I halved these. The side with the excess paper is the bottom of the folding page. The rim of the box or lid is folded from the top line of squares.

Tucking one end into another requires patience. A colorful vocabulary sometimes helps as well. I fold the floor section up against the walls and then fold the model flat on one of the original division creases. I start by sliding the floor sections together (hold with a hair pin or clip). Then I squared up the model before sliding the pleated sections together. Finally, I line up the top sections and roll over the rim. It helps to start folding the floor partially down before completing this step because it gets in the way of the rim. An alternative is to use a strong clip to hold the cross-over piece at the rim, continue with the floor folding and return to fold over the rim at the end.

The rest is relatively easy. I said, relatively.