Clemente Giusto is a talented origami designer who has only recently been discovered hiding in an Italian town. Now his work is being shown and taught around the world. In the US, Yami Yamauchi has been promoting Giusto's sophisticated Rectangular Box.
Not only has Yami re-diagramed this work but he has made a die for scoring multiple sheets. With the crease pattern already on the paper even novice folders can learn to fold this model quickly and easily. You can see Yami demonstrating his method in Los Angeles.here.http://havepaperwilltravel.blogspot.com/2009/01/wcog-january-meeting.html
Thanks to John Andrisan, also from Los Angeles, I obtained a copy of the diagrams of this model which were drawn up by Paola Scaburri. This week I found time to try them out. The result was as charming as I expected.
I had one complaint. The internal triangular flaps did not support each other. Whichever of the flaps has been folded over first will fall into the box rather than sit on the underside of the roof.
I came up with a relatively simple solution to this problem. I added a crease half way down the triangular flap of one side and then inverted half the triangle to make a pocket. The point of the triangular flap from the other side can now sit inside this inversion and support its weight, which in turn, is supported by it.
For reasons which i hope will be apparent later, I also turned over the top left hand corner of the paper.
Some of the details on the Scaburri diagrams seem to be incorrect or less than optimum. It seems that the lateral valley folds that become the internal roof triangles should be mountain folds. There appears to be no good reason why they should be folded in the other direction first.
I have drawn up a crease pattern diagram incorporating these features and have added some photos for clarification. With the help of the video of Yami's folding method this should be sufficient for most folders to figure it all out.
The following photos are taken from several differently color models. I hope no-one is confused by this.
The creases which are shown in the top left hand corner of the CP pattern (see previous image) are not shown on this pre-creased sheet. I folded the corner over later in the procedure.
The walls are pulled up, the diagonals are reinforced and the corners are pinched together.
The tip of the large triangular flap is inserted into the triangular pocket on the other side. This becomes the lower roof of the box.
Next, the lateral sides are folded towards the center across the top of the box. They should want to do this naturally.
At this point you should have a rectangular box shape on the bottom and a couple of "wings" on the top with points which arise from pleats on the under sides.
The aqua blue model has the side flaps pulled back so that you can see how the layer with the pocket triangle looks. The side walls will naturally cover this.
The blue jeans model shows what the box looks like when the top layers are allowed to fall into place. The circle draws attention to the top left point which can be folded in half at this juncture.
Fold up the flaps.
(Only one of the models shown has the top left corner point folded in half. When I put the others together I folded the flap over later in the procedure. You can choose to leave the creasing until it is necessary or you can pre-crease earlier. Note that the original model did NOT turn this point under.)
Fold the flaps over and tuck them under as shown. Fold in the order shown. In the demonstration photos the box has been turned part way around so that you can see the procedure more clearly.
Like the model with the hair pin holder, the next flap is left untucked in the original model. In my variation I turn over the corner (remember what I kept hinting at?) and tuck it under its contiguous strip. If you haven't creased this point before now, this is the time to do it.
Now for the last flap.
You've finished. Enjoy your box.
4 comments:
Hi, dear. This looks lovely and nice instruction. Could you please write the format of the paper, though ? :)
The sheet should be in ratio 10 x 8 (cm, inches or werever you want) You can see it in the photo.
A fun but challenging model for sure and not impossible..
Starting with a square and use this method to divide into Fifth's
http://www.origami.at/diagrams/Fifths.pdf
Then make a diagonal crease on corner to the first line, use that as landmark to create a 5x5 grid.
Cut off one fifth and then focus on creating the longest creases first (in the crease pattern)
then the smaller ones.
Try not to crease the "invisible" grid lines to create a "clean" box without extraneous creases,
or
from the cut sheet, now a 5x4 grid make it into a 10x8 grid, then practice the box making note of the landmarks....
Paper should not be too thick or too thin.
I use a variant of Thales Theorem to divide paper accurately into any number of parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0UlaGctcwM
I use another sheet of paper (usually ordinary letter paper) which I divide easily into eighths. Then I match the bottom corner of my target sheet with the bottom corner of my divided sheet and then swivel an edge upwards until the top corner meets the edge of the fifth (or whatever column number you need). I fold my target sheet back along its edge to the intersecting point of the previous column. That is my first fifth (or third,sixth or seventh). Just make sure that your folded sheet is neither too big or too small compared with your target sheet, the sides of which must be able to span the required number of columns.
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